dc.description | The aim of the PhD thesis was pharmaceutical development of
lipophilic cream with active components of plant origin, which
contains optimal combination of standardized fruit extract and fatty
oil of blackthorn, dog rose, elderberry and rowanberry (Prunus
spinosa L., Rosa canina L., Sambucus nigra L. and Sorbus aucuparia
L., respectively), with satisfactory stability, safety, efficiency and
applicative properties, using quality bу design concept. In vitro
examination of ultrasonic fruit extracts with different solvents
(methanol, 70% ethanol, 45% propylene glycol, purified water)
included physico-chemical properties determination, polyphenolic
compounds, organic acids and vitamins contents analyses, evaluation
of antioxidant and anti-tyrosinase activity and influence on fibroblasts
viability. As the richest source of bioactive compounds, with good
antioxidative and anti-tyrosinase activity and positive influence on
fibroblasts viability, an aqueous extract of rose hip at concentration of
3.5% was selected for incorporation into lipophilic cream. After the
yields of fruit fatty oils obtained by Soxhlet and supercritical
extraction were compared, a better efficiency of the supercritical
extraction method for fatty oil isolation from seeds was found.
Analysis of fatty acid content in the fruit and seed oils was carried out
by gas chromatography. Blackthorn, rose hip and elderberry seed oils
were selected for cream formulation at concentrations corresponding
to the linoleic acid content of 0.815%. Organoleptic evaluation of
lipophilic creams, physicochemical stability testing (pH value,
electrical conductivity, centrifugation test) during the 12 months
study, sensory characteristics analysis and in vivo estimation of
irritation potential (as an aspect of skin application safety) and
efficiency (effects on hydration, surface lipid content, skin pH,
melanin index, as well as transepidermal water loss), showed that
lipophilic cream with rose hip extract (35 mg/g) and blackthorn seed
oil (22.4 mg/g) had optimal sensory characteristics, stability,
favorable safety profile and the highest application efficiency, so it is
suggested as potential pharmaceutical preparation for the treatment of
dry skin, changes associated with atopic dermatitis (pruritis, xerosis,
eczema), hyperpigmentations, UV radiation protection and oxidative
stress, which lead to the loss of skin vitality and photoaging. | en |