Analiza deformacionih karakteristika šavova u zavisnosti od strukturnih parametara primenjenih konaca i tkanina

Abstract

Production of clothes of appropriate quality, low prices and increased productivity is conditioned by properly defined various parameters of the production process. By knowing the connections between structural and mechanical properties of sewing thread, fabric and seams, would be provided conditions for defining the optimal parameters of the production of clothing. During exploitation, clothing is exposed to various influences and particularly stresses. These stresses are greatly affected by the movement of the body, cut off the garment, the method of production, materials and others. Too much stress can lead to damage or deformation of clothing which most often appear on the materials in the area of the seam, on the seam and rarely on the material itself. Mechanical characteristics of sewn seams depends on their structural solutions, sewing thread and fabric, as well as the technological conditions of the process of sewing. Methods for testing are based on the examination and analysis of breaking characteristics of seams, shear of threads in fabric or thread tearing in the seam area (at constant one way load). Based on the experimental results and theoretical assumptions were set realistic mathematical dependencies, by which can be predicted the tensile forces and forces on the limit of elasticity of sewn seams. The breaking force of the seam (relative) and the force on the limit of elasticity of seam are shown as a function of the applied tensile forces of sewing thread, density of stitch and coefficients of correction that takes into account the changes that occur due to dynamic loading of materials involved in the process of sewing. The proposed equations can be used for predicting breaking force of seams and elastic forces on the limit of elasticity , thus simplifying and improving the technical preparation of clothes, saving materials and energy.