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Formulation development of moisturizing dermocosmetic emulsions: combined rheological, textural and sensory analysis approach

dc.contributor.advisorSavić, Snežana
dc.contributor.otherVuleta, Gordana
dc.contributor.otherTamburić, Slobodanka
dc.contributor.otherCekić, Nebojša
dc.contributor.otherKrstonošić, Veljko
dc.creatorLukić, Milica Ž.
dc.date.accessioned2016-01-05T12:50:04Z
dc.date.available2016-01-05T12:50:04Z
dc.date.available2020-07-03T09:46:59Z
dc.date.issued2014-10-16
dc.identifier.urihttp://eteze.bg.ac.rs/application/showtheses?thesesId=1857
dc.identifier.urihttp://nardus.mpn.gov.rs/handle/123456789/3175
dc.identifier.urihttps://fedorabg.bg.ac.rs/fedora/get/o:9531/bdef:Content/download
dc.identifier.urihttp://vbs.rs/scripts/cobiss?command=DISPLAY&base=70036&RID=46639375
dc.description.abstractUvod Savremeni trendovi nameću obavezu formulisanja bezbednih i efikasnih kozmetičkih proizvoda zadovoljavajućih senzornih karakteristika. Obzirom na dužinu trajanja i cenu senzornih studija, uz činjenicu da se subjektivna ocena od strane ispitanika ne može isključiti, značajno je ispitati mogućnost upotrebe instrumentalnih metoda u optimizaciji željenih senzornih osobina. Kozmetologija kao savremena nauka fokusira svoju pažnju na razvoj novih, usavršavanje poznatih, kao i ispitivanje mogućnosti kombinovanja postojećih metoda i tehnika koje bi postupak formulacije proizvoda i karakterizacije novih sirovina pojednostavile, uz istovremeno obezbeđivanje odgovarajućeg kvaliteta, bezbednosti i efikasnosti kozmetičkih proizvoda. Ispitivanja novih alkil poliglukozidnih (APG) emulgatora, odnosno podaci koji se odnose na rasvetljavanje strukture nosača sa ovim emulgatorom, kao i njihovu bezbednost i efikasnost, značajno doprinose ispunjavanju prethodnih zahteva. Cilj istraživanja Cilj istraživanja ove doktorske disertacije bio je ispitivanje mogućnosti upotrebe instrumentalnih tehnika (reološka i teksturna merenja) u optimizaciji senzornih karakteristika dermokozmetičkih emulzija za vlaženje kože. U tom smislu je bilo neophodno razviti odgovarajući senzorni panel koji će sa instrumentalnim merenjima predstavljati standardizovani set ispitivanja, a koristio bi se u formulaciji i optimizaciji emulzija. Dodatno, cilj istraživanja bio je i rasvetljavanje mezomorfnog ponašanja dugolančanog C20/C22 APG emulgatora kao i razvoj nosača sa ovim emulgatorom primenom standardizovanog seta instrumentalnih i senzornih testova. Da bi se utvrdio kiselostabilni potencijal APG emulgatora ispitana je mogućnost inkorporiranja glikolne i salicilne kiseline u razvijene nosače. Metode Eksperimentalni rad bio je podeljen u tri faze: 1) Formulisane su 4 model emulzije V/U tipa za vlaženje kože kod kojih je variran jedan emolijens, a koje su poslužile standardizaciji instrumentalnih i senzornih testova, odnosno postavljanju modifikovane senzorne studije i uspostavljanju korelacija između ovih ispitivanja...sr
dc.description.abstractIntroduction A modern cosmetic product has to be formulated as a product with adequate safety and efficacy requirements and proper sensory characteristics. Taking into consideration the time and cost of performing a sensory analysis on one hand, and volunteers’ subjective evaluation on the other, potential use of instrumental measurements in order to develop a product with desired sensory profile becomes a very interesting research field. As a contemporary science, cosmetology is focused on development of novel and improvement of the existing methods and techniques which could make products’ formulation and raw materials’ characterization easier. At the same time, suitable quality, safety and efficacy of a cosmetic product are imperative. Investigation of a novel alkyl polyglucoside (APG) emulsifier, along with consideration of the inherent structure, safety and efficacy of vehicles stabilized with this emulsifier considerably contribute to the mentioned requirements. Aim The aim of this work was to investigate the potential use of instrumental techniques (rheological and textural measurements) in development of moisturizing dermocosmetic emulsions with appropriate sensory characteristics. For that purpose it was necessary to create a proper sensory panel. This panel altogether with certain instrumental measurements will present a standardised instrumentation kit which would be used in the process of formulation and optimization of emulsions’ characteristics. Additionally, the aim of investigation was to elucidate mesomorphic behaviour of the long-chain C20/C22 APG emulsifier, as well as to develop a vehicle stabilized via this emulsifier with the employment of the standardised kit. In order to establish the possibility for this emulsifier to be used with acidic substances, potential use of glycolic and salicylic acid was investigated...en
dc.formatapplication/pdf
dc.languagesr
dc.publisherУниверзитет у Београду, Фармацеутски факултетsr
dc.relationinfo:eu-repo/grantAgreement/MESTD/Technological Development (TD or TR)/34031/RS//
dc.rightsopenAccessen
dc.sourceУниверзитет у Београдуsr
dc.subjectSenzorne osobinesr
dc.subjectSensory characteristicsen
dc.subjectreološka i teksturna merenjasr
dc.subjectdermokozmetički proizvodi/kozmetoceuticisr
dc.subjectalkil poliglukozidni emulgatorisr
dc.subjectlamelarni tečni kristalisr
dc.subjectbioinženjering kožesr
dc.subjectrheological and textural measurementsen
dc.subjectdermocosmetic productsen
dc.subjectalkyl polyglucoside emulsifiersen
dc.subjectlamellar liquid crystalen
dc.subjectbioengineering techniquesen
dc.titleFormulaciona istraživanja dermokozmetičkih emulzija za vlaženje kože : koncept uporedne reološke, teksturne i senzorne procenesr
dc.titleFormulation development of moisturizing dermocosmetic emulsions: combined rheological, textural and sensory analysis approachen
dc.typedoctoralThesisen
dc.rights.licenseBY-NC-ND
dcterms.abstractСавић, Снежана; Тамбурић, Слободанка; Цекић, Небојша; Вулета, Гордана; Крстоношић, Вељко; Лукић, Милица Ж.; Формулациона истраживања дермокозметичких емулзија за влажење коже : концепт упоредне реолошке, текстурне и сензорне процене; Формулациона истраживања дермокозметичких емулзија за влажење коже : концепт упоредне реолошке, текстурне и сензорне процене;
dc.identifier.fulltexthttp://nardus.mpn.gov.rs/bitstream/id/24026/Milica_Lukic_referat_FF.pdf
dc.identifier.fulltexthttp://nardus.mpn.gov.rs/bitstream/id/24025/Disertacija.pdf


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