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Influence of agro-cellulose fibre based yarn structure on subsequent textile transformation and end-use properties

dc.contributor.advisorJovančić, Petar
dc.contributor.otherRadetić, Maja
dc.contributor.otherMihailović, Tatjana
dc.contributor.otherPoparić, Goran
dc.contributor.otherBizjak, Mateja
dc.creatorStanković, Snežana B.
dc.date.accessioned2016-01-05T12:41:32Z
dc.date.available2016-01-05T12:41:32Z
dc.date.available2020-07-03T09:21:00Z
dc.date.issued2009-04-09
dc.identifier.urihttp://eteze.bg.ac.rs/application/showtheses?thesesId=639
dc.identifier.urihttp://nardus.mpn.gov.rs/handle/123456789/2875
dc.identifier.urihttps://fedorabg.bg.ac.rs/fedora/get/o:6824/bdef:Content/download
dc.identifier.urihttp://vbs.rs/scripts/cobiss?command=DISPLAY&base=70036&RID=35147791
dc.description.abstractTekstilno tržište se poslednjih decenija odlikuje širokom zastupljenošću sintetičkih vlakana, pre svega zbog jeftinije i produktivnije proizvodnje. Pored ekonomskih razloga, tome doprinosi i činjenica da prisustvo sintetičkih vlakana u odevnom tekstilnom materijalu poboljšava stabilnost dimenzija i trajnost i olakšava negu i održavanje odevnih predmeta. Međutim, povećani zahtevi za komfornom odećom, kao i ekološki prihvatljivim tekstilnim vlaknima, izazvali su porast proizvodnje i primene prirodnih vlakana. Proizvodnja i primena vlakana konoplje odlikuje se naglim usponima i padovima, počev od perioda intenzivnog gajenja pa do gotovo potpunog prekida poslednjih decenija. Jedinstvena svojstva i ekološke prednosti vlakana konoplje reafirmišu ih za primenu u oblasti tkz. „zdravog“ odevnog tekstila. Specifična tekstilna svojstva konoplje, kao što su odlična higijenska, toplotna, električna i UV zaštitna svojstva, svrstavaju tekstilne materijale od konoplje u grupu tekstila sa dobrim fiziološkim predispozicijama. Ipak, izvesne slabosti vlakana konoplje, koja se vezuju za tvrdi opip i malu elastičnost, predstavljaju ograničenja sa aspekta taktilnog komfora i dalje tekstilne transformacije. Da bi bi se konoplja uvela u oblast visoko kvalitetnog komfornog odevnog tekstila, u kojoj sada dominiraju pamuk, viskoza i vuna, neophodno je da se svojstva vlakana konoplje modifikuju i usklade sa svojstvima tradicionalnih komfornih vlakana (pamuk, viskoza i vuna). Aktuelna istraživanja se bave mogućnostima upotrebe vlakana konoplje, modifikovanih specijalnim metodama elementarizacije (kotonizovanje), u mešavinama sa pamukom, vunom ili sintetičkim vlaknima, kako bi se upotrebom sistema predenja pamuka ili vune proizvele visoko kvalitetne pređe. Cilj ovog istraživanja bio je ispitivanje mogućnosti dobijanja komfornih tekstilnih materijala mešanjem vlakana konoplje sa drugim vlaknima dubliranjem ili končanjem homogenih pređa. Primenjene tehnike kombinovanja jednožičnih pređa omogućile su ne samo kombinovanje vlakana različitih svojstava, već i dobijanje kompleksnih pređa čija su se svojstva, usled promena u gustini pakovanja i orijentaciji vlakana, razlikovala od svojstava jednožičnih komponenata. Končanjem jednožičnih pređa različitog sirovinskog sastava i strukture dobijene su hibridne pređe jedinstvenih svojstava. Radi ispitivanja uticaja strukture pređe na svojstva komfora, od dubliranih pređa od konoplje, viskozne i tri različito upredene varijante pamučnih pređa, pri čemu su sve imale istu nominalnu finoću, proizvedeno je devet varijanti DL pletenina. Deseta varijanta pletenine izrađena je od končane dvožične pređe od konoplje. Od končanih pređa na bazi konoplje proizvedene su dve serije DD (1×1) pletenina, koje su se odlikovale manjom (N)i većom (V) gustinom petlji. Ispitivana su mehanička, relaksaciona i površinska svojstva pređa za koja se očekivalo da mogu imati uticaja na komfor pletenina, kao i fizička svojstva pletenina koja su u najvećoj meri odgovorna za percepciju komfora. Sposobnost pletenina da prenose toplotu, vazduh i vodenu paru poslužila je za ocenu toplotnog komfora pletenina...sr
dc.description.abstractIn the past decades, the textile market was characterized by a wide range application of man-made fibres. The low-cost and efficient production of these fibres seems to be the main criterion. In addition to economics, some of desired garment properties such as the shape stability, durability and easy care could be easily achieved by introducing man-made fibres into clothing textile materials. However, growing demands for the comfort clothing and environmentally friendly fibres caused the increase of production and application of natural fibres. The hemp fibres production is characterized by sharp ups and downs, from the extensively growing to their decline in the past decades. Thanks to the unique hemp fibre properties and ecological benefits hemp is reintroduced as a potential fibre source for the health human application. Specific hemp-textile characteristics, as their excellent hygienic, thermal, antielectrostatic and ultraviolet radiation-resistant properties determine hemp fabrics as physiological friendly textiles. However, hemp fibres have some limitations concerned with the tactile comfort and subsequent textile transformation. Hemp by nature is coarse and does not have much elasticity. In order to introduce hemp to the area of high quality comfort clothing, which at the moment is governed by cotton, viscose and wool, the properties of hemp fibres must be improved to match to those of traditionally comfort fibres (cotton, viscose and wool). Actual investigations refer to the usage of modified hemp fibres, by special fibre elementarization methods (cottonization), in blends with cotton, wool or synthetic fibres, so that they can be processed on cotton or wool spinning systems to high quality yarns. The aim of this research was to investigate the possibilities of producing comfort textile fabrics incorporating both hemp and other fibres by assembling or folding (ply-twisting) of homogeneous yarns. The techniques applied for a combination of single yarns (assembling and folding) made it possible not only to combine different fibre properties, but to provide the complex yarn differing from single components because of the changes in fibres packing density and orientation. In case of an introduction of different fibre content single components, differing in basic structure themselves, the folded hybrid yarns with the unique properties were obtained. In order to access the influence of yarn structure on comfort properties, plain knitted fabrics were produced from two-assembled hemp, viscose and three variants of cotton yarns differing in twist level, all having the same nominal linear density. In such a way nine plain knitted fabrics were obtained. The tenth variant was produced from twofolded hemp yarn. From the folded hemp based yarns two series of rib (1×1) knitted fabrics were produced differing in stitch density, designed as N (lower) and V (high) density. Mechanical, relaxation and surface properties of the yarns, which were expected to have an influence on comfort properties of the knitted fabrics, were tested. Physical properties of the knitted fabrics the most responsible for the comfort perception were included in this study. In order to evaluate thermal comfort of the knits, basic transport properties: thermal properties, air permeability and water vapour permeability, were investigated. Tactile comfort of the knits was assessed through the mechanical (compression, tensile) and surface properties investigated...en
dc.formatapplication/pdf
dc.languagesr
dc.publisherУниверзитет у Београду, Технолошко-металуршки факултетsr
dc.rightsopenAccessen
dc.sourceУниверзитет у Београдуsr
dc.subjectpređasr
dc.subjectyarnen
dc.subjecttwistingen
dc.subjectassemblingen
dc.subjectfoldingen
dc.subjectknitted fabricen
dc.subjecthempen
dc.subjectcottonen
dc.subjectviscoseen
dc.subjectTactel®en
dc.subjectthermal comforten
dc.subjecttactile comforten
dc.subjectmechanical properties of yarnen
dc.subjectrelaxation properties of yarnen
dc.subjectsurface properties of yarnen
dc.subjectthermal properties of knitted fabricen
dc.subjectair permeability of knitted fabricen
dc.subjectwater vapour permeability of knitted fabricen
dc.subjectcompression properties of knitted fabricen
dc.subjecttensile properties of knitted fabricen
dc.subjectsurface properties of knitted fabricen
dc.subjectupredanjesr
dc.subjectdubliranjesr
dc.subjectkončanjesr
dc.subjectpleteninasr
dc.subjectkonopljasr
dc.subjectpamuksr
dc.subjectviskozasr
dc.subjectTactel®sr
dc.subjecttoplotni komforsr
dc.subjecttaktilni komforsr
dc.subjectmehanička svojstva pređesr
dc.subjectrelaksaciona svojstva pređesr
dc.subjectpovršinska svojstva pređesr
dc.subjecttermička svojstva pleteninesr
dc.subjectpropustljivost vazduhasr
dc.subjectpropustljivost vodene paresr
dc.subjectkompresija pleteninesr
dc.subjectistezanje pleteninesr
dc.subjectpovršinska svojstva pleteninesr
dc.titleUticaj strukture pređa na bazi agroceluloznih vlakana na njihovu dalju tekstilnu transformaciju i upotrebna svojstvasr
dc.titleInfluence of agro-cellulose fibre based yarn structure on subsequent textile transformation and end-use propertiesen
dc.typedoctoralThesisen
dc.rights.licenseBY-NC-ND
dcterms.abstractЈованчић, Петар; Михаиловић, Татјана; Бизјак, Матеја; Попарић, Горан; Радетић, Маја; Станковић, Снежана Б.; Утицај структуре пређа на бази агроцелулозних влакана на њихову даљу текстилну трансформацију и употребна својства; Утицај структуре пређа на бази агроцелулозних влакана на њихову даљу текстилну трансформацију и употребна својства;
dc.identifier.fulltexthttp://nardus.mpn.gov.rs/bitstream/id/17646/Disertacija.pdf


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